Antarctica – South Shetlands

Waking up in my new double-sized bed and opening the curtains to see my first Antarctic glacier really struck a note within me. For some reason Antarctica in general had a profound effect on me. Somehow it felt like all the pieces of the puzzle finally came together and it remains hard for me to write about my trip here as I don’t feel I do it any justice, but I’ll give it a shot none the less.

With the ship finally entering the calmer water of the South Shetlands I could finally enjoy the buffet-style breakfast. The first day would be tough with 2 landings and not having our legs stretched for 3. We would first visit Barrientos Island and later Half Moon Island. One hour after breakfast and a short zodiac ride later I finally set foot on my first Antarctic island, Barrientos Island to be precise. Barrientos Island is located close to King George island and belongs to the South Shetlands. The island, known for the gentoo penguin (ezelspinguïn) colony, did not disappoint. Right from my first step on the island naughty penguin chicks were all over the place jumping on the emergency barrels taken with us in case we get stuck on the island for an extended amount of time.

Gentoo chick after being caught toying with the emergency rations.

Not only did we see the penguins, we also heard them (the chicks recognise their parents by their voice) and most of all smelled them as the entire island was covered in their shit (red/pink for krill, white for fish, greenish from algae). Additionally many skuas kept flying around us and the first views of the continent really showed how tough these animals need to be to survive out here.

The second landing, Half Moon Island, was also awesome. This island, whose crescent shape is likely the result of an eroding caldera is known for its large chinstrap penguin (stormbandpinguïn) and skua colonies. When we arrived there we noticed the penguins and skuas were not the only inhabitants as the shore was littered with fur seals and a boat wreck of (maybe) the early explorers. For me the most notable aspect of the island was a giant rocky façade covered in colourful lichen, but the quarrelling penguins remained a joy to see, especially when they steal each other’s stones for their own nest and get caught.

Three against one is not really fair! Especially when it’s the gang who is at fault.

By the time we left Half Moon Island we were already hungry. By then I had already met a newlywed Spanish couple and decided to third-wheel during dinner. After that though, I went to bed as the next day would consist of not 2, but 3 landings!

Some Spanish newlyweds named Joan and Catarina.

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