Having spent a nice week with the Frienchies and Jinghan it was time to, temporarily, say goodbye as my dad would pay a visit to the ´Fin del Mundo´ and participate in the trek of his life, the ´Dientes de Navarino´, also known as the southernmost hike in the world. The others already headed there a few days ago and I would meet them there, but the coming two weeks it was father-son time.
Due to the unavailability of the ferry to Puerto Williams we first stayed a weekend in Ushuaia relaxing a bit and enjoying the Argentinian cuisine also known as a giant steak. On monday though we took the early ferry from Ushuaia to Puerto Navarino and were surprised by the huge waves we experienced at the Beagle Channel. After about an hour though, we landed safely in Puerto Navarino and were taken to Puerto Williams by bus afterwards where we stayed a night at the Ecolodge.
Having had a nice breakfast overseeing the Beagle Channel we were finally ready to start the trek beginning with the climb up to Cerro Bandera (flag hill), where the Chileans tease it’s neighbour by raising a giant flag. The hike up the hill was easy and the view of the channel and town was very nice.
Dad and I ready to face the Dientes. 
Nice walk up the hill. 
The ‘bandera’ at Cerro Bandera.
Continuing our journey we met a small group of hikers that were also doing the trek and heading to the same campground, Laguna Salto. One of these hikers, Liza, was walking faster than the group and ended up hiking with us instead and once at the campsite, after asking about our plans, asked if she could join. Since she looked nice it seemed like a good idea and thus we became a hiking party of three rather than just a father-and-son hike.
Liza and I cooking dinner and discussing about food. 
Dad and I looking out towards Laguna Salto. 
The area surrounding Laguna Salto.
The following day we would hike up to the split between the Lago Windhond and Dientes treks, where the Frenchies and us would try to meet up. It was a lovely hike for me, but my dad was struggling and finally found out in what kind of hikes I’m in to, which is a pity as I fear that my parents now become extra worried when I’m doing hikes. Additionally, since he was too focused on trying not to die on the trek he did was not able to actually try to enjoy it even though, throughout the day, weather was nice and the lakes we passed were beautiful. Luckily, once at the camp spot my dad could relax again and whilst I was looking for Loic, Sulli and Jinghan my dad and Liza went for a refreshing swim. Unfortunately I couldn’t find them, which was quite a disappointment.
The steep climb up from Laguna Salto. 
Father and son posing on the trail. 
View of some nameless lakes from our break spot. 
Dad risking his life for a better f
photo than his son.
Beautiful view of the trek. 
A nice spot for some cookies. 
Liza and I cooking once again. 
My lovely Hilleberg in its natural habitat.
Having had two wonderful days the third day was a little disappointing. The blue made way for gray and it started drizzling a bit. Today we would link the Dientes with the Windhond, which meant a long and tough hike up Monte Bettinelli (highest point of the hike) and down a treacherous muddy path all the way down to the peat bogs before reaching the lake. The view from the summit was beautiful and the lakes along the way even more so, but the muddy section took its toll. It truly drained all energy from our legs as we kept falling/sliding due to the slippery mud and when we were finally down in the valley we still had to cross 5 km of bog! Luckily the bog did not prove to be difficult and it provided us beautiful sights of the area as the vivid colours stood out in comparison to the monotonous grey-ish of the mountains. When we finally did end up in Refugio Charles we were very tired and decided to eat and sleep as soon as possible to prepare ourselves for the next day, in which we planned to circumvent Lago Windhond to head to the bay.
Crossing the stream at the campsite. 
View from Monte Bettinelli. 
Steep climb down from Bettinelli. 
Yes, even in summer there is no shortage of snow on Isla de Navarino. 
Dad crossing a stream in front of Laguna Bettinelli. 
Giving my feet the rest they deserve after climbing and descending Monte Bettinelli. 
The muddy woods down from Monte Bettinelli. 
A boggy part of the trail. 
Refugio Charles
Waking up the next morning was tough. We noticed how much energy we used the previous day and the weather was not too inviting either. Still, we decided to try to reach the bay, but soon found out how difficult it was. There was no path and many times we just had to walk in the lake to reach further and quite soon we found out that it was impossible to reach the bay with our energy levels and the rain, so we headed back to the Refugio and decided to stay in there for a night. During the day Liza and I were collecting wood for the stove which was lovely. My dad though, truly knocked out by the effort of the hike was snoring on a ‘real’ bed, something he really appreciated.
The gang in front of Refugio Charles. 
Heading back from our failed attempt crossing the lake. 
Liza keeping the fire in the hut going. 
Liza noticing I’m taking a photo whilst sawing wood. 
‘Real’ beds for once.
By the next day we saw a trend in the weather as it seemed to get worse every day. Still, we woke up early to connect with the Dientes again, which meant the muddy climb up to Bettinelli and with the rain the previous days it would become all the more difficult. Somehow though, we raced through this section and we’re back at our previous campsite early in the afternoon. Feeling like we came home we had a lovely dinner together in our ‘living’ room (we made a nice area before in which we ate), but went to bed soon after.
Crossing the bog once again. “Don’t follow the lights Liza” 
Climbing the now even muddier trail up to Laguna Bettinelli. 
Having a short and wet break. 
Steeply uphill towards Monte Bettinelli. 
The view from the peak has changed quite dramatically. 
Reaching the stream and our camp again.
Sunday was a special day as it was my birthday and in the days leading this day my dad was carrying a suspicious looking package. The day before Liza and my dad were already acting weird and on Sunday morning I found out why. He had been teaching Liza Dutch birthday songs (Lang zal hij leven) and together they made tompoucen and they decorated the campsite with flags! It was truly awesome to start a day like this, even though it was drizzling once again.
Blowing out the candles on the tompouce. 
Mountain tompoucen are delicious. Even when the icing drips because of the rain. 
Even at the end of the world one can’t avoid birthday decorations.
After indulging ourselves in the tompoucen we had to start hiking though as we planned to reach Laguna Marrillo, which meant hiking first to the intersection of the two treks and then hiking the equivalent of 1.5 days of the Dientes circuit and the weather was getting worse and worse. The hike past Laguna de los Dientes and Escondida was nice although it was a shame we missed the marvellous view of the Dientes from Laguna Escondida, but from there on it got tough. Luckily no day would be as hard as the day we went to Lago Windhond and we reached Laguna Martillo in time before the sun would set. Unfortunately it was pouring at the time and we had our meals in our tent rather than together which was a pity and since the weather did not permit any other activities we went to bed directly after.
The Dientes are shrouded in mist at Laguna Escondida. 
The hike was quite muddy today. 
Very muddy.
Having had bad weather for a couple of days now without any sign it would get better we decided the next morning to hike all the way back. Though not raining anymore, it was more like tiny ice crystals (unlike both snow and hail) were falling everywhere. Last night we discussed we would get up early enough to hike the 14 km to the end of the trail and for the first time we actually managed. After our breakfast, no oatmeal this time but wraps as we tried to be quick, we headed out past Laguna Martillo and up in the direction of paso Virginia, the most difficult part of the hike. However, we soon found out what last night’s weather did to the trek. Due to the rain and cold temperatures everything was covered in a thin layer of ice that made walking and climbing incredibly hard. Still, determined as we were to get a hot shower, we pushed through and set a good pace and reached the pass before noon. However when we arrived there we met 4 Brits (Conor, Fergus, Paddy & Will) that warned us about the pass saying it was impassable. The strong winds could literally blow a grown man with backpack meters away and because of the ice covered stones it became too dangerous to even go and look at the pass. So we decided to stick together and walk the trail in reverse as it did not seem like we would be able to cross it anytime soon. At Laguna Martillo though, I became tired and did not want to cross paso Ventarron (Gale pass), known for its strong winds, that day so we set up camp. The Brits though decided to continue as they did not have the food to camp an additional night.
Streams become rivers with weather like this. 
Beautiful peaks near Laguna Martillo. 
Dad and I taking a short breather. 
The mountain range between us and the lodge.
Waking up early the next day with the intention to hike all the way back we were surprised to see the weather had changed and were greeted by some sunshine. After communicating with the lodge to ask if paso Virginia is passable we decided to try again, this time with succes. It was funny to see how the weather changes your perception of the environment as today this stretch was lovely and we even saw beavers on the trail! Reaching the pass again we agreed that crossing yesterday would be s suicide mission as even today, without any wind, it was a tricky operation. Luckily we passed and headed towards the final stretch and made it before sunset. However, once at the end of the trek we still had to hike all the way to the lodge, but were lucky enough to be picked up by a truck driver that dropped us off in front of the lodge. In front of the lodge, for the first time, it dawned on my dad and I what kind of feat we just performed. How this truly difficult hike at the end of the world tried to beat us into submission every day, but instead we stood victorious at the side of the road. We survived without as much as a scratch when so much more could have happened and it solidified the father-son bond we already had.
Waking up with some blue skies! 
Lake with two beavers. 
Though not as slippery new snow made the trail quite difficult. 
Plants covered in ice next to the stream at the pass. 
A snowy landscape at the pass. 
Paso Virginia is quite steep and making a mistake can make you fall from the cliffs at either side of the trail. 
Paso Virginia from the other side. 
End of the trail! 
Getting a ride from a truck driver.
The next day consisted mainly of recuperating (and cooking as Jinghan joined came to our lodge), but having heard of this pizzeria in town Liza and us met up that evening to have a lovely and delicious conclusion of our time on the Dientes.