Antarctica – Gerlache Strait (2)

Time truly flies when being surrounded by these pristine landscapes and wildlife. It’s already the second last day, but one I’ve been looking out for from the start of this trip as we are about to see Port Lockroy, a British base for Antarctic explorations since 1944! Additionally we would also have our polar plunge today in the beautiful Foyn Harbour.

Bransfield House.

Visiting Port Lockroy was so much better than the ‘rare’ opportunity of Palmer station. There was so much to see! Though Bransfield House is quite recent (1996), the house is a museum and contains many artefacts from the early explorers such as Operation Tabarin in 1944. Additionally, I was so pleased to see solar panels on the staff building. After asking I was allowed to have a closer look and talking with the staff taught me that, during the summer, these panels provide enough energy to power the staff building and that they’re planning to connect Bransfield House next year. Such a different mindset than the Americans located less than 50 km away. Furthermore Pongo was able to see his family a lot closer than last time.

Pongo seeing his nephews at Port Lockroy.

After Port Lockroy we still had time to see Jougla Point before heading to Foyn Harbour. This island was previously used for whaling. As a reminder the bones found around the island and in the water were combined to make several whale skeletons. But also the penguins were nice. It was the first time actually to see some newborn chicks, which is sad as they’re likely to be dead right now due to the colder weather coming in. Still, not thinking about that, it was nice to see.

Whale skeleton at Jougla Point.

In the afternoon we sailed north to Foyn Harbour, where we would have a zodiac cruise and the highly anticipated polar plunge. Foyn Harbour couldn’t be a better spot for doing the plunge. Massive icebergs 20+ m high and 100+ m long (and these were the smaller ones) were floating across the bay and with the zodiacs we were able to see them close by. Again we saw some whales, but a Weddell seal drew most of the attention this time.

Weddell seal at Foyn Harbour. The dark colouration is because that part is still wet.

However the bay is mostly know for a whaling shipwreck called the Guvernøren. The story goes that after a successful whaling season the crew was having a party and one person bumped an oil lamp of the table. Quite unfortunate as this ship was transporting approximately 5050 m3 of flammable whale oil. In order to save the crew and cargo the captain ran the ship in a natural harbour of Enterprise Island and try to sink the boat afterwards by shooting harpoon grenades at the hull, which didn’t work. However the entire crew survived to tell the tale.

Whaling vessel Guvernøren, wrecked by a combined effort of the captain’s will and a huge fire on January 27th 1915.

After the zodiac cruise though, it was time to get cold! I was looking forward to this a lot and was telling everyone I wouldn’t jump in but go in ‘controlled’ and swim a while. Nobody believed me, but I did end up being the only one that swam till the end of the rope and back. However, I was jaleous of the cool picture everyone was having and decided to go in a second time. Catarina filmed both plunges (thanks a lot Catarina!!).

Pongo and I in the practically freezing polar water.
First polar plunge and swim in the Southern Ocean.
Second Plunge and photo shoot with Pongo.

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